Old Phuket
Town
Sino-Portuguese Houses

A must-do in Phuket is a walk in the old part of Phuket City, around
Thalang, Dibuk and Krabi roads. The beautiful architecture along these
roads will take you back the charm of a century ago. According to Pranee
Sakulpitpatana, a lecturer at Phuket Rajabhat University and one of the
island’s premier historians, the architecture is a reflection of
European influence on the island. Europeans including the Portuguese and
the British, had been interested in Phuket’s tin wealth since the 16th
century.
Sino-Portuguese Houses in Phuket
In the 18th century, much of the island’s tin mining was carried out by
Hokkien Chinese who became the big players in building the old part of
the city. In the early 20th century, under Governor Phraya Rassada
Nupradit, major European mining companies were invited in, and the major
public infrastructure such as roads and canals was built.
No one knows exactly when the first building in this style was
constructed, but old photographs from the reign of King Rama V
(1853-1910) show that it was already well established by then. Two
styles of building in particular stand out: the shop-house
(Sino-Portuguese style) and the big mansion (Sino-Colonial style).
The Sino-Portuguese shop-house in Phuket
The shop-house was a place for a family to both live and do business,
using the front of the building for trading and the remainder, including
the upper floor, as their private home. Businesses in those days
included banks, general stores and tin mining offices. Shop-houses are
usually found built in rows, giving rise to the Hokkien Chinese term
tiam choo, meaning a row of shop-houses.
The floor plans of all these shop-houses are very similar: five metres
wide but as much as 50 metres long, creating a very spacious living
space for an entire family. Across the front of each, along the edge of
the street, is an arcade, offering shade and shelter to the public.
Behind this, the house is usually divided into four parts.
There is a living room for general purposes and for receiving guests,
followed by a space, open to the sky, with a well. At the rear is the
kitchen. Upstairs is the family’s private area and bedrooms. In the old
days, the central open area was often the heart of the house. It was
here that you would find the women of the house chatting while cooking
or doing the washing. It was also, in a sense, the lungs of the house,
allowing air to flow through, even in the hottest month, April, when
temperatures in Phuket can rise to 38 degrees C. Also contributing to
the cool atmosphere were the thick, solidly-built walls. |